Monday, 15 August 2016

ANZAC Memorial Scholarship 2016 Virtual Tour


Welcome to the ANZAC Memorial Scholarship 2016 Virtual Tour. The intention of this blog is to show the places we travelled to and give historical information and personal remarks.

The tour is easy to follow; each post is a day of our trip, with a map for that day. It has, numbered in chronological order, the places we visited. Click on the marker to get information on the site and a selection of images. Click the return button to return to the map.

Hope you enjoy, James Jackson

Day One


Paris Tour

We landed in Paris on the 17th of July, the first real day of our tour. It was exciting, going overseas for the first time and after we cleared customs and had lunch we had a quick tour of the city while we waited to meet the Ambassador of Australia to France. Paris is a beautiful city, there is nothing like it in Australia; the Arc de Triomphe, the Notre Dame and Sacré-Cœur were especially amazing.

We stopped at a few places, a viewing area with a view of the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre courtyard where we saw the glass pyramids and while we drove around our tour guide commentated to us the highlights of the city. There was so many sites we drove by, so many places that were unique in the world or historically significant that it really sunk in to me during that trip that I was in Paris, that I had left Australia.

The Embassy

We were invited to the embassy to meet the Ambassador and discuss the trip ahead of us. We were ushered to the balcony with a wonderful view of the Eiffel tower. The Ambassador and the Governor of NSW addressed us and wished us a safe and educational trip, after which we talked to our esteemed hosts about the journey ahead.

Day Two


Les Invalides


The Les Invalides was the first stop on our second day in Europe. Our main reason for going was the World War I gallery, however before that we were able to visited the tomb of Napoleon.

Originally designed by Libéral Bruant and ordered by Louis XIV, it was designed to be a hospital and residence for aged and unwell soldiers. In 1840, Louis Philippe I ordered the remains of Napoleon to be reburied in the Chapelle Saint-Jérôme, in Les Invalides. Today, the hospital also serves as a war museum and is open to the public.

Napoleon's tomb was designed like a cathedral; it was large, with a high ceiling with sculptures and domes. The hundreds of tourists around chatting and excited changed the original intention of the place; it didn't feel like a place of solace. Which makes me think about our tombs and graves for our soldiers of World War I, will tourists in another one hundred years act at our places of remembrance like this? I hope our war graves and memorials will still be treated with respect.

I was curious about whether the French museum would be accommodating to non-French speakers but it was, which in hindsight I should of known. With English and French descriptions and with the help of our tour historian the museum was educational and helped me understand the changes which occurred during the war. The museum showed the early uniforms and later contrasted them with the uniforms of the later conflict, it showed the artillery pieces and weapons the war was fought with and in this respect allowed us to better understand Brad (the tour historian) when we reached the battlefields.

Palace of Versailles


The Palace of Versailles was a short drive from Paris, I remember it being a hot day, not what I was expecting of European climate. Walking up to the Palace I saw thousands of people something that we left behind once we left Paris. The palace can be considered into two parts; the palace itself, and the gardens.

Once the centre of the French kings, the Palace started out as a hunting lodge for King Louis XIII. This was expanded massively by Louis XIV, who was able to make it the centre of government in 1682. The hall of mirrors was the largest room in the palace; in 1919 the hall was where the treaty of Versailles was signed, officially ending World War I.

The palace itself was massive in scale; the outside featured golden fences which looked impressive. We were assigned a tour guide who guided us through the palace, educating us on each room and its historical significance. I didn't find it as beautiful as I have heard people describe it as; yes, it was impressive but also ostentatious, and to my viewpoint tastelessly so. What I saw of the garden was nice, the fountains were huge and it was all well managed.

Notre Dame de Paris and closing time at the artist's markets







Before we went to dinner we were given about an hour to explore, and I had two options; to wait in line to enter the Notre Dame or to explore the artists markets on the opposite bank; I chose the latter. The markets were varied; posters, hand painted and hand drawn works and trinkets of all sorts. It was near closing time and there wasn't many buyers around, this was the Paris I was expecting, and it was beautiful.

Day Three

Second Division Memorial - Mount St Quetin


Division Memorials were chosen by the Divisions, usually in a place of great significance. The Second Division chose Mont St Quentin as the site for their memorial due to the victory of Second Division troops in the battle of Mont St Quentin in 1918. From the 31st of August to the 3rd of September the Second Division fought across the Somme River to capture the 100m tall mountain. After a counter attack by the Germans the Australian forces were able to retake and hold the position.

The memorial is unorthodox; most Australian division memorials are obelisks; the Second Division Memorial is a statue. Rebuilt in 1971, today it shows an Australian solider in full kit.

When I was there I found it hard to imagine the fighting that must of taken place there. In the summer sun the area was beautiful. The Memorial was the first place we visited on that day.

Grande Guerre - Museum of the Great War in Peronne

Based in Château de Péronne, the museum is built within the castle. The town of Peronne was occupied by the Germans for most of World War I.

The museum is unique, instead of a linear story it simply displays replica and genuine objects from around World War I. these includes weapon and uniforms, but also propaganda and food packaging, the museum was modern, and we had lunch by the Somme river.


Flanders Fields Museum

The Flanders Fields is a very modern Museum in Ypres. It boasts interactive displays, including details of individuals involved in the War. It was a very emotional museum, it invoked the sadness and terror that the war brought to those who were involved in it.

While there we wore our official suits, as we were to participate in the Menin Gate Ceremony afterwards. This caused some amusing situations. Many of us scholars were mistaken for curators and I myself was asked a couple of time questions in French and Flemish from tourists. When we wore our suits in other places we were usually mistaken for a school group, often we would clarify, I was pleasantly surprised how many Australian tourist we saw everywhere we went, and some of my best memories from the trip come from talking to people and learning their families involvement in the war.

Menin Gate

The Menin gate in Ypres stands at entrance to the city Australian and Commonwealth troops used during World War I. Today, the gate is engraved with the name of every unknown solider who fought in the Ypres salient. Since the 2nd of July, 1928, the Last Post ceremony has been performed every night (excluding the period where the town was occupied during World War II).

We were there for one of the ceremonies. The gate was full of people, tourist, children, the elderly and locals all there to commemorate. The two museums we went to previously put me in a mindset of reflection. I found that throughout the trip I was able to empathise more and more with the soldiers who fought. Its a different feeling from reading about a battalion that was wiped out, another to see the battlefield they died on, to see the point where the last man fell.

Day Four

Day Five

Fromelles Centenary

The Fromelles centenary ceremony was the purpose of our day. Wearing our official attire, it was a hot day with a clear sky. It was an emotional ceremony, more so due to the unveiling of the soldiers which were up to now unidentified. I must of saw hundreds of graves which had no name on them but under each one of them was a story, and as they unveiled the name of the soldiers they told us part of that story.
The battle of Fromelles started on the 19th of July, 1916. After 7 hours of artillery bombardment the soldiers of 5th Australian Division and there British allies charged the German fortifications. Facing extreme odds many were killed by machine gun fire. By 8 am the following day the battle was over, leaving 8080 causalities, 5000 of which were Australian, including Private George Yendle, who was only 16 years old when he died at Fromelles.

Day Six

Passchendaele war experience



Our day started with a trip to the Passchendaele war museum and experience museum. The museum was located near a lake in a beautiful part of Belgium. We went to a lot of museums during the trip, but I believe I learnt more by listening to our tour historian then I did from all the museums combined. This isn't to say that the museums we visited were bad or not engaging, but they covered a lot of the same ground, still, the Passchendaele museum did have unique features, such a small trench system which we were able to walk through.

After our tour of the museum we started the reenactment. First, we dressed up in our uniforms, complete with webbing and a helmet. It was a hot day but the experience was worth the small discomfort. It really does give you a better idea, walking in their boots for a kilometre, it allows you to better empathise and understand the point of view of the soldiers who fought. 

Island of Ireland Peace Park



A war memorial to Irish soldiers in World War One, the park features a 34 m high tower of the Irish round tower design.

It was unique among the memorials near the western front. There are so many grave yards and memorials in the east of France, its something I've never seen before as in Australia I've never been to a Commonwealth War Grave Cemetery, i'm not sure if there are any.

The park was built in 1998, the tower allows the sun to light the interior only on the 11/11 at 11 am, the anniversary of the armistice.

Day Seven

Australian Memorial Park

Designed by Peter Corlett, an Australian sculptor, the bronze stature depicts Sergeant Simon Fraser carrying a wounded man. The park was opened on the 5th of July 1998. The park commemorates the Australians killed during the Battle of Fromelles.

While we were at the park, thousands of knitted poppies were planted in the ground, one for every solider lost. This was done by the local people for the centenary of the battle.

Rue-Petillon Military Cemetery

The Rue-Petillion Military Cemetery is a "concentration" cemetery - that is to say that smaller cemeteries in the surrounding area were transferred here after the war. Many of the soldiers buried here were casualties that died at a dressing station near to the site, a place know as "Eaton Hall" during the war. Those buried here also include over a hundred soldiers which fell during the battle of Fromelles, 1916.

Pheasant Wood Military Cemetery


Pheasant Wood Military Cemetery is a concentration cemetery and the first to be produced in 50 years. The Cemetery was constructed between 2009 and 2010, after bodies were recovered from excavation work. The soldiers recovered were from the battle of Fromelles and some of them have been identified via DNA. 

Vimy Ridge Memorial


Vimy Ridge Memorial is a memorial site dedicated to the Canadians that served and died in World War One. The site covers an area of the battlefield which the Canadians crossed. The memorial took eleven years to build.

Vimy Ridge is to Canada what Galipoli is to Australia. Its significance stems to the fact that during the battle of Vimy Ridge all four divisions of the Canadian army fought together. From the 9th to the 12th of April, 1917, the Canadian forces attacked the German front to capture the ridge line in order to gain high ground. The Canadian were successful, at the cost of 3,598 dead.

The monument and ground around it was beautiful, but solemn. The people around the site treated it with respect. It is hard to imagine the land of eastern France as it must have been one hundreds years, today the countryside is peaceful and green with life.

The Bullecourt Digger Memorial


The statue features an Australian solider gazing in the direction of the German trenches. Bullecourt was the location of the death of the solider I researched, Major Howell-Price. The following the the report, in full, I completed about his life:

Major Philip Llewellyn Howell-Price
Written By James Jackson
Philip Llewellyn Howell-Price (1894 - 1917) was a New South Wales born Major serving in the 1st Battalion of the Australian Infantry Force. Enlisting as a private on the 14th of September, 1914 he was quickly promoted to lieutenant before serving in Gallipoli and then the Western Front. Major Philip Llewellyn was killed in action in Belgium, 1917. The Howell-Price family saw six sons enlist, the youngest three of which were killed in battle. This sacrifice is well acknowledged in online sources.

Family and Early Life
Born to John and Victorian Isabel Virginia Howell-Price, Philip Llewellyn was the second youngest of six brothers to serve in the war. John and Isabel had sixteen children. John Howell-Price was a reverend and Welsh migrant that was vicar (priest) of St Silas's Anglican Church, Waterloo, Sydney. Philip was born in Mount Wilson, a small village in the Blue Mountains. Phillip was educated Kogarah High School (in a suburb of Sydney), this differs from two of his older brothers, Frederik and Owen, both of whom were sent to Windsor Grammar School (it appears this school is no  longer operating, from newspaper fragments found online it appears to be an all boy boarding school). Regardless, Philip followed his brothers’ Fredericks footsteps and worked as a bank clerk (with what was Commercial Banking Co. of Sydney now National Australian Bank). Phillip was unmarried with his next of kin in army paperwork being his father. Prior to the war Phillip served for two years in the senior cadets and five months in Field Artillery. These military qualifications contributed to his near instant promotion to second lieutenant when he enlisted in 1914.



Army service
Phillip was one of 52,561 Australian men who enlisted to serve in 1914. He was 20 years old when he was recruited to 1st Battalion, A.I.F and after four days he was commissioned to second lieutenant. His Battalion left for training in Egypt on the 18th of October and arrived on the 2nd of December the same year. His Battalion trained in Egypt and served in a defensive role of the Suez Canal before being deployed.
The 1st Battalion was there on the 25th of April, with Phillip likely in the second or third wave of the Gallipoli landings. It was the day after this that he was promoted to Lieutenant proper. Phillip and the Battalion participated in the battle of Lone Pine, in which 2277 of his comrades were killed in wounded. Numerous sources claim that Phillip was mentioned in dispatches due to his service in Lone Pine, I was unable to find these correspondences. During the battle he was wounded and spent the following three months recovering before re-joining his old unit and shortly after was withdrawn to Egypt as Gallipoli was evacuated.
It was in Egypt before he deployed to France that he was promoted to captain on 28 January 1916. He arrived in Marseillies, France on the 28th of March. Phillip was awarded the Distinguished Service Order after he led a raiding party in Armentières that June. His Battalion fought in the battle of Pozières the same month, although I could find no record of his involvement was found. The month following his decoration Phillip fought in the battle of the Somme. After leave to England in February 1917 he was injured in the battle of Bullecourt and was then assigned to a non-combative post in the 1st ANZAC division. His brother, Richmond also fought and was wounded in Bullecourt. Richmond died from his wounds and was posthumously awarded the Military cross. While in the 1st ANZAC division Phillip was awarded the Military cross and was promoted to Major.
Phillip’s re-joined his old Battalion in the Battle of Broodseinde; this sub-battle of the greater conflict of Passchendaele was Phillips last battleground. Now 23, promoted from private to major, Major Philip Llewellyn Howell-Price died in an enemy artillery bombardment on the 4th of October, 1917. He had no last will or testament, and his belongs were, quote: “10 Hankerchiefs, 14 Collars, 2 Ties,  1 Belt, 1 Safety Razor, 1 Hodall [bag], 2 Shirts, 1 Looking Glass, 1 S.D Tunic.” From my research it appears he left no diary, and his letters although documented are not avalible online. Major Philip Llewellyn Howell-Price’s name can be found on the Honour Role of his 1st Battalion. Major Howell-Price body was not recovered. Major Howell-Price, along with 6177 of his comrades with no known graves are commemorated in the Menin Gate Memorial.

Conclusion
Evidently an intelligent and courageous man, his potential was clear to his superiors which resulted in his rapid promotions. Major Howell-Price proved himself a natural leader on the western front and was awarded the Military Cross and DSO accordingly. His many wounding did not break his resolve and each time he recovered he returned to the front, even requesting to be transferred from a staffing squad back to his old Battalion, proving not only his loyalty but his bravery. I will never know who Major Philip Llewellyn Howell-Price truly was, but what I have learned about him makes me believe that he was someone to look up to and that he demonstrates all the ANZAC values we venerate today.